Retro Modernism in the Eternal City: Exploring Rome’s 1960s and 1970s Architecture
Beyond the Ancient Ruins
When people think of Rome, they picture the Colosseum, the Pantheon, and centuries-old piazzas. But hidden in plain sight lies another Rome—one that embodies the experimental optimism and bold innovation of the 1960s and 1970s. On our recent architecture tour through the capital, we uncovered an entirely different side of the Eternal City: brutalist monuments, modernist housing blocks, and rationalist dreams cast in concrete.
Join us as we step back into a time when Rome dared to reinvent itself.
EUR and the Legacy of Fascist Modernism
Our tour began in EUR (Esposizione Universale Roma), a district conceived under Mussolini but reimagined and expanded in the post-war decades. The square symmetry and stark marble of the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana—now Fendi headquarters—stand as a bridge between 1930s rationalism and the post-war modernist movement.
In the 1960s and ’70s, EUR became a playground for architects blending ideology with geometry. Wide boulevards and open spaces reflect a desire to modernize Rome without erasing its grandiosity.
Don’t Miss:
Palazzo dei Congressi by Adalberto Libera
The reflecting pool and parklands
The bold and blocky INPS building (early 1970s)
The Churches That Broke the Rules
The Catholic Church embraced architectural change in surprising ways during this era. Chiesa di San Giovanni Bosco in Cinecittà and Chiesa del Gesù Divino Lavoratore are striking examples of ecclesiastical design abandoning the baroque in favor of concrete curves and clean lines.
Perhaps the most breathtaking is Chiesa di Dio Padre Misericordioso (completed slightly later, in 2003 but influenced by earlier trends), whose soaring sails of white concrete evoke both spaceship and sanctuary.
Brutalism in the Suburbs: Corviale and Beyond
Next, we ventured into Rome’s periphery to visit the infamous Corviale, a 1-kilometer-long housing complex nicknamed “The Serpent.” Built in the 1970s as a utopian housing solution, Corviale is both a symbol of social ambition and architectural controversy.
Love it or hate it, Corviale is a prime example of Italian brutalism—and a stark contrast to the romantic ruins of the city center. It tells a story of ambition, functionality, and the limits of modernist planning.
University Dreams: The Architecture Faculty at Roma Tre
Rome’s universities also embraced modern design. The Faculty of Architecture at Roma Tre and the National Library (Biblioteca Nazionale Centrale di Roma) offer excellent examples of how public institutions interpreted international styles, adding an Italian flair with travertine, wide overhangs, and expressive facades.
Why This Tour Matters
Rome’s 1960s and ’70s architecture is not always pretty—but it’s real, radical, and deeply human. These buildings reflect an era of massive social change, economic growth, and urban experimentation. They ask big questions: What should a modern Rome look like? Who is the city for?
This tour is perfect for:
Architecture enthusiasts
Students of modern urbanism
Travelers seeking a fresh lens on a familiar city
Ready to Explore?
Whether you’re a fan of Le Corbusier or just curious about concrete, this tour offers a compelling counter-narrative to the postcard-perfect Rome. Lace up your walking shoes, charge your camera, and prepare to fall in love with a different side of the Eternal City.
Have you explored Rome’s modernist side? Share your favorite 1960s–70s buildings in the comments! And don’t forget to subscribe for more off-the-beaten-path architecture tours around Europe.
